If you’re new to Mexico and only shopping in chain stores, I’m afraid you’re really missing out. One of the coolest things about living here is the colorful array of street markets that pop up in different neighborhoods on different days of the week.
Those who read my last post already know them by their Spanish name — tianguis, which translates to “open air market.” I like to think of tianguis as a huge perk of living near to where so much food is grown.
Even in cities, tianguis allow you to buy fresh and local, directly from growers — at a fraction of the price of the big chain stores.
Now, that you’re (hopefully) sold on the idea of shopping tianguis… How do you find one?
If you’re new to town, the easiest way is to ask a local, and preferably a Mexican. ¿Hay un tianguis en esta colonia? (Is there a street market in this neighborhood?) If that fails to turn up anything (unlikely) you can always ask Google Maps.
Since moving to Guadalajara in 2022, I’ve been happily exploring its local tianguis. What follows is a tour of my (and locals) favorites!
Note: This post does not cover the permanent, daily indoor markets in Guadalajara such as Mercado Libertad and Mercado Abastos.
Monday
Tianguis Inglaterra on Av. Inglaterra at Giovanni Papini, Zapopan from 7 am to 3 pm.
A tiny, one-block-long market alongside the train tracks; it’s possibly the cleanest and most organized tianguis I’ve seen in the metro area. While product selection is limited, you can find in-season fruit and vegetables, fresh tortillas, cheese, fish, chicken, and prepared foods.
We LOVE the chiles rellenos sold here. Fancy pet supplies and some clothing are also available.
With a spacious layout and above-average prices (this is an affluent area) it’s never crowded. Parking is difficult on account of Club de la Colina being a few feet away.
Tuesday
Tianguis Tepayac on Calle Jose Maria Morelos next to Villa Fantasia from 8:30 AM to 2 PM.
The one-block-long tianguis adjacent to Colonia Seattle is my neighborhood street market. It offers high-quality food to satisfy most of my weekly shopping needs, including abundant fruits and vegetables, fresh bread, cheese, dairy, fish, poultry, spices, alliums, kitchen supplies, and prepared food.
There is also a small number of stalls selling Hello Kitty school supplies, cosmetics, plants and toys. Decent (not rock bottom) prices and friendly vendors. Given its compact size and narrow lanes, it can get pretty crowded between 10 AM and 12 PM.
Wednesday
Tianguis Manuel M. Dieguez, Calle Jesus Garcia east of Av. Americas from 8 AM to 3 PM.
For the tianguis-starved residents of Providencia, this market bordering Santa Tere is heaven-sent. Roughly 3 blocks long, it’s incredibly well-stocked with fruits and vegetables, fresh fish, shellfish, chicken, cheese, eggs, cookies, cakes, jericayas, dried beans and peppers, nuts, grains, herbs, and spices. You could easily do all of your grocery shopping here, but that’s not all…
Bulk cleaning supplies, hardware store items, quality kitchen tools, pots and pans, crystals, incense, personal care products, houseplants, counterfeit purses, wallets and watches, used clothing, new clothing (some with Ross and Marshall’s tags still on them), cell phone accessories — even a hilarious selection of ugly Christmas sweaters — were available on my last visit.
If I lived in this area I’d never shop anywhere else. Prices are a steal, which is ironic given the expensive real estate nearby.
The only downside is an impossible parking situation. Take the bus, Uber, or bike to get here.
Tianguis Novelistas, Av. Novelistas 6067, Zapopan from 7 AM to 4 PM.
Another small market in Zapopan close to Tianguis Inglaterra, but with a wider array of products. This street market is a great spot to pick up all the usual grocery items — fresh fruits and vegetables, meats, fish, chicken, cheeses, seeds, and cereals, as well as kitchen gadgets, plants, clothing, and of course, prepared food. Regulars have mixed reviews on pricing, as they can vary markedly by vendor.
Thursday
Tianguis Constitución, Calz Constituyentes 2989, Zapopan from 8 AM to 3 PM, Thurs & Sun.
This is a huge, crowded market to the east of Charros baseball stadium that operates twice a week with a vast selection of wares. All the usual fresh food items are available here plus new and secondhand clothing, footwear, toys, books, cell phone accessories, video games, fresh-cut flowers, and more.
Plenty of shoppers stop to grab a meal at the prepared food stalls, consuming their dishes on tiny red plastic stools. Prices are muy barato (cheap!) on most items here.
On the negative side, it’s jammed with families and shopping carts by 11 AM, making it somewhat hard to shop. This also isn’t the cleanest market, generating boatloads of trash each week. Parking nearby can be difficult, and on occasion vendors at this market engage in wildlife trafficking with the sale of exotic parrots, which is illegal in Mexico.
That said, I really do love this market for abundant fresh produce, herb plants, and the sheer randomness of it all.
Tianguis Cordilleras, Sta. Catalina de Siena near Calle Sta Rosa de Lima, from 8 AM to 3 PM.
This smaller market is known for its friendly vendors and high-quality products that cost a bit more than other tianguis. There’s all the usual fresh food — fruits and vegetables, meat, cheese, and fish, as well as prepared food popular at breakfast time.
Many regulars rave about the tlacoyos in this market. Tlacoyos are a traditional dish of pre-Hispanic origin that features a corn dough base stuffed with cheese, fava beans, and other savory ingredients, then fried or toasted.
Given its proximity to Chapalita (a neighborhood with many expats) vendors here are more accustomed to dealing with foreigners. Parking is a total mess, so it’s best to come via public transit, bike, or on foot.
Tianguis Tonalá, Calle 16 de septiembre 276-298, Tonala, from 8 AM to 3 PM
For the newly arrived expat, this is THE market to hit up for furniture, housewares, tabletop items, ceramics, artwork, and so on, if your goal is to decorate with a local aesthetic on a strict budget.
I bought some woven chairs for my terazza, straw lanterns, and a handsome ceramic water dispenser for next to nothing in Tonala.
Even if you don’t visit on market days (which can get overwhelmingly crowded with surrounding streets choked by traffic) there are plenty of artisan workshops to visit any day of the week. Bargaining is essential.
Tonalá is located outside of Guadalajara but still within the metro area. It takes about 40 minutes to reach by car and 1 hour by mass transit, using a combination of light rail (Linea 3) and bus (T-15).
Friday
Tianguis de los Maestros, Cabildo at Av. de los Maestros from 7 AM to 4 PM.
This is another tiny market to the south of Lomas del Country and northeast of Providencia. It stretches about one block and features a diverse offering of fresh fruits, vegetables, cheese, dairy, clothing, watches, pet accessories, and occasionally cosmetics and toys.
In the summertime, the nieve (a local version of sorbet) and agua frescas really hit the spot. If you need something more substantial to eat, there are also quesadillas, menudo, and other savory items to taste before or after you shop.
Tianguis de Artesanias Chapultapec, Avenida Chapultapec Sur, from 4:00 PM – 10:30 PM
Colonia Americana is known for its historic charm, hopping nightlife, and excellent restaurants. Where it falls short is the lack of tianguis for food shopping.
That said, it’s home to a night market every Friday where locals and tourists alike browse for hand-crafted jewelry, artwork, crystals, and so forth made by talented local artisans.
Saturday
Tianguis El Baratillo on Calle Juan R. Zavala 38 (east of Centro) from ~ 6 AM to 4 PM.
El Baratillo is the mother of all outdoor street markets in Guadalajara. It’s raw and rough compared to many of the other tianguis covered in this article.
Vendors here sell virtually anything humans can imagine selling, including food, clothing, footwear, jewelry, electronics, toys, tools, books, records, cleaning supplies, hardware, plumbing items, bicycles, motorcycles, houseplants, vintage junk, and more.
Despite the name (baratillo means cheap in Spanish), savvy regulars note that prices have crept up recently and deals are becoming harder to find.
El Baratillo also has a dark side visible to anyone paying attention. The sale of pets, exotic animals (many of which are suffering), weapons, and grey-market medicines goes on here with no obvious involvement by the police.
Tianguis El Colli on Av. El Colli, La Primavera, Zapopan from 7 AM to 3 PM.
Located in Colli Urbano southeast of Parque Metropolitano, this market is well-loved by locals for its excellent prices and wide selection of fresh produce (especially fruits), meat, fish, clothing, footwear, personal care items (makeup, moisturizers, nail polish), toys, plants, and more.
Numerous vendors sell prepared food (tacos de barbacoa, quesadillas, gorditas), offering visitors lots of options for breakfast. Aisles are narrow and the place gets pretty packed by 9:30 AM, so come early for a better shopping experience.
Tianguis de Antigüedades on Av. Mexico by Jardin Ignacio Zaragoza, 8 AM to 4:30 PM.
This is a super cool market for browsing vintage wares. Visiting with a wish list is tricky as the offering is ever-changing. But if you’ve ever desired an old victrola, leather suitcase, or globe from the Prussian era, you just might find it here.
There is also fine artwork, sculpture, rare coins, glassware, cameras, comic books, antiquarian books, toys, antique mirrors, cigarette boxes, vintage furniture, American memorabilia, and more.
We stumbled onto a cool Modigliani print while browsing a few months ago. But when we circled back to buy it it was already gone.
Tianguis de Antigüedades is not advisable if you lack impulse control with your wallet!
Sunday
Tianguis Santa Tere along Calle Andres Teran near the mercado, 8 AM to 4 PM.
A huge street market featuring hundreds of stalls and a wide assortment of fruit, vegetables, shellfish, pastries, cakes, kitchen supplies, clothing, footwear, plants, jewelry, artwork, music, audio equipment, cell phone accessories, and more.
This centrally located, working-class neighborhood draws visitors from all over the city (translation: HUGE crowds) for a one-stop shopping experience and great prices. As such it’s virtually impossible to park a car in Santa Tere on market days. (and only slightly easier at other times) Come by bus, bike, or on foot.
Tianguis Dominical. Calle Nicolas Romero 517. Sundays 6:30 AM – 4:00 PM
Sandwiched between Santa Tere and Centro is one of Guadalajara’s oldest tianguis, dating back 80 years. It’s a great market that’s worth a trek from Colonia Americana to stock up on food items at excellent prices. The primary focus here is on fruits and vegetables, with a small number of vendors offering meats, fish, shellfish, dairy, kitchen supplies, and clothing.
Longtime shoppers report that vendors increasingly cater to those buying in large volume, with many only willing to sell multiple kilos of food at a time. Others complain that sellers here rarely display their scales, with a growing incidence of shorting. (receiving less than you paid for)
On the plus side, bargains are often available late in the day as the market is winding down.
To wrap up, this tour of Guadalajara’s street markets is by no means comprehensive but offers new arrivals a feel for the incredible breadth of shopping available to those looking to support Jalisco’s local farmers and small-scale entrepreneurs.
If we missed your favorite local tianguis, please do share it in the comments below.