The average Mexpat eats an enormous number of tacos and tostadas. But sometimes you wake up craving something delicious from a faraway land.
Here in Guadalajara — Mexico’s second-largest city — we enjoy a vibrant culinary scene. Talented chefs from all over the world cook innovative food for a sophisticated local audience.
Best of all, the foreign cuisine available here seems to expand with each passing day.
In my latest installment of “Where to Dine in Guadalajara When You Don’t Want Mexican,” I share my new finds for exceptional French, Vietnamese, Italian, and Japanese food. To read last year’s recommendations, check out this article.
Le Bon Plan
An authentic French bistro in Colonia Moderna.
Have you been binge-watching old Julia Child cooking shows on YouTube lately and looking for an authentic boeuf bourguignon or cassoulet? If so, Le Bon Plan is the only French restaurant in Guadalajara you need to know.
Set in a lovely colonial house built in 1910 in the Moderna neighborhood south of Centro, Le Bon Plan features a charming Old-World atmosphere. French owner Christophe Helmli and his Mexican chef also deliver French classics reminiscent of a Parisian bistro.
Le Bon Plan’s menu is extensive, and we did our best to sample a variety of dishes on a recent visit. Our favorites were the escargot, simply prepared with fresh parsley, garlic, and butter, a classic French onion soup, and a delicate tuna tartare.
This restaurant is also a gold mine for oenophiles, with a cellar featuring many hard-to-find bottles in Mexico. Le Bon Plan’s wine list spans Bordeaux, Loire, Burgundy, the Rhone Valley, Cahors, and Languedoc, among others.
Moreover, the staff are extremely knowledgeable about their wines (it’s hard to overstate how rare this is in GDL) and may bring off-menu bottles for consideration based on your taste, to ensure a great pairing.
You are forewarned that service at Le Bon Plan can be tremendously slow and occasionally absent-minded. We had to ask about several items that never showed up. (after repeated inquiries they eventually did)
And while we were having a grand time catching up with friends we hadn’t seen in months, our meal stretched to 3+ hours on account of the leisurely kitchen pacing. For me, the style of service at Le Bon Plan made dining here seem even more authentically French.
Our only food disappointment was a cheese plate. It sadly felt like an afterthought, with banal varieties unworthy of a serious French restaurant. Next time, I’m sure we’ll opt for tarte tatin instead.
As a bonus, there’s live music (typically a jazz duo) on weekend evenings starting around 8:30 pm on the restaurant’s spacious terrace. They also allow well-behaved dogs at their outdoor tables, bien sûr.
Street parking in the Moderna neighborhood isn’t difficult, but LBP does offer valet parking for 50 pesos if you’re running late.
Where & How Much: Av. Alemania 1410, Moderna, 44170 Guadalajara. We spent $90 USD per person with wine. If you drink beer, cocktails, or non-alcoholic beverages, a meal for $60 USD per person is more realistic.
Let’s Pho
Finally, an excellent option for Vietnamese food in Guadalajara!
For those in the know, Vietnamese food easily ranks among the world’s best cuisines. Having lived in San Francisco for many years and visited Vietnam several times, I’m admittedly obsessed with Vietnamese food and have consumed more than my fair share of bánh mì sandwiches.
But those of us craving authentic Vietnamese food in Guadalajara have had it tough — until now.
Opening last summer, I consider Let’s Pho the most exciting new addition to our local dining scene in 2024. One block east of the “Indy 500” that is Avenida Americas, Let’s Pho occupies a corner storefront in Ladrón de Guevara where Calle Jose Maria Morelos meets Simon Bolivar.
Owner Charlie Huynh, a Saigon native who owns another successful restaurant in Puerto Vallarta, has finally answered our prayers.
With a dash of guerilla marketing on social media ahead of the opening, it’s amazing how fast word of Let’s Pho’s arrival traveled in the expat community…
Now, the minimalist, all-black dining room at Let’s Pho is always buzzing. On my last visit, nearly every table of diners was speaking English. (which seldom happens here)
On three occasions, we’ve tasted around the ever-evolving menu. For the newbie, aromatic and steaming hot bowls of pho are a great place to start.
Pho is available with beef, chicken, or vegetable broth. With classic vermicelli noodles, tender meats or tofu, and abundant fresh greens, it’s a very satisfying dish. The accompanying hoisin, fish sauce, and chili oil enable you to ramp up the heat to your heart’s desire.
Another favorite is the chili & lemongrass chicken. Made with fresh lemongrass and served with steamed rice, this dish delivers just the right amount of fire.
For lighter palates, the fresh shrimp chips are an addictive snack and perfect alongside an order of tofu spring rolls with peanut dipping sauce. My one minor quibble with Let’s Pho is the bread used for its bánh mì (which by the way is called “Torta Vietnamita” on the menu).
Unlike the traditional baguette used for bánh mì, this bread delivers a hint of sweetness and lacks the customary crunch. But it’s a minor flaw in an otherwise delicious sandwich.
With a generous offering of vegan dishes to complement the traditional Vietnamese recipes, Let’s Pho extends an olive branch to the mostly young and international crowd that’s taken up residence in nearby Colonia Americana.
To drink, there are teas, soft drinks, a variety of local and imported beers, and most surprising — a tasty Sauvignon Blanc by the glass.
And while I normally skip dessert, this is one place to make an exception.
The coco flan is addictively light, silky, and sweet without being cloying. It stands out as the best dessert I’ve had all year.
Finally, do not miss the Vietnamese coffee! Like Mexico, Vietnam has a tremendous coffee culture — and Let’s Pho offers a rich, dark roast that I adore.
Where & How Much: C. José María Morelos 1854, Ladrón de Guevara, Guadalajara. For a couple, expect to spend $45-50 USD for dinner and drinks, with tax, and tip included.
Ristorante da Massimo
A classic, under-the-radar fine dining Italian spot in Zapopan
You probably didn’t move to Mexico to eat ravioli, but some of us aren’t embarrassed to admit that we heart gluten. (still)
I fell in love with handmade pasta as a student living in Italy. Others develop a taste for handmade pastas while touring Italy or living in San Francisco… Whatever the reason, I’ve got you covered.
For those craving pillowy pastas and other Italian classics, Ristorante da Massimo is worth seeking out. It’s located in Colonia Altamira, just outside of Guadalajara proper in Zapopan, on a nondescript stretch of Avenida Americas just north of Plaza Patria.
While the restaurant offers a few outdoor tables, I suggest heading inside for better ambience. The décor at da Massimo suggests a wealthy Italian grandmother’s Tuscan farmhouse, filled with still-life paintings, hanging copper pots, vintage curios, Talavera tile floors, a wine room, and sturdy wood furnishings.
This is “old school” Italian fine dining, with professionally trained waiters formally attired and alert to your every need.
As for the food, da Massimo prepares traditional Italian dishes that are phenomenally delicious. We’ve eaten all over Guadalajara, and I think it’s some of the most authentic Italiano you can find here.
The extensive menu offers handmade ravioli (or tortellini or agnoloti depending on the day), seasonal risottos, assorted grilled meats and fresh fish, carpaccio (beef and octopus), and traditional pizzas. (no wacko Mexican pizza toppings are allowed here)
My top recommendations include risotto con salsa de trufa, ravioli ‘Maremmani” with ricota and spinach, octopus carpaccio, and lasagna Bolognese.
Like Le Bon Plan, it’s also a hidden gem for oenophiles, with a well-chosen list of mostly Italian bottles and a few high-quality Mexican labels like Casa Madero Tinto 3V.
For dessert, there are homemade tortas della nonna, and tirimisu.
Prices at da Massimo are at the high end of fine dining in Guadalajara, but given the quality, it delivers excellent value for the money. That said, the premium prices likely explain why the place is rarely packed.
While da Massimo doesn’t draw crowds, those who care more about discovering exceptional food than see-and-be-seen hotspots will be amply rewarded here.
Where & How Much: Av. de las Américas 1213, Altamira, 45160 Zapopan. For a couple, expect to spend anywhere from $60 USD to $180 USD, including tax & tip, depending on the number of courses consumed and what you decide to drink.
Mononoke
Super-satisfying ramen in the heart of Colonia Americana
This hidden gem in Colonia Americana celebrated its fifth anniversary this past June. A cozy and lowkey joint, it holds a mere 7 people at a time.
In their own words (translated), “Mononoke seeks to offer honest, responsible, and unpretentious cuisine based on the concepts of temporality and gratitude of traditional Japanese cuisine.”
Mononoke is run by just two people – one cooking and one overseeing the front of the house – directing customers to open spots, taking orders, serving food and drinks, cleaning up, and closing out checks. (yes they are hustling)
Diners sit shoulder to shoulder around a U-shaped bar, which provides an excellent vantage point to watch the kitchen action. From little more than a few burners and far less counter space than my home kitchen, Mononoke creates culinary magic.
Served in handsome, glazed pottery, Mononoke’s ramens (which change seasonally) use only house-made noodles and fresh, seasonal ingredients from local sources. Loaded with carrots, daikon radishes, cilantro, marinated eggs, pork belly (or tofu and mushrooms), they’re rich and distinctive umami bombs!
NOTE: Vegetarians are not well catered to here as most of their recipes use tonkotsu broth (from pork bones). However, there’s one vegan ramen (photo above) with miso broth, and it’s delicious.
Whatever you choose, Mononoke’s hearty and satisfying fare is perfect for the cooler evenings we’re finally beginning to enjoy in Guadalajara these past few weeks. (this afternoon notwithstanding!)
The vibe is charmingly Japanese, with an adorable Maneki-neko (Japanese lucky cat) collection lining the shelves, and a TV on the back wall playing Japanese or Korean pop videos.
Afterward, if you’re up for a nightcap in this colorful neighborhood, I recommend heading three blocks south to De la O Cantina. It’s one of the coolest cocktail bars in Colonia Americana.
Where & How Much: C. Gregorio Dávila 67, Col Americana, Artesanos, 44200 Guadalajara. For a couple, expect to spend around $25-30 USD for dinner with beers, tax and tip included.